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Socializing a puppy to the world at large is one of the most important jobs that puppy raisers do. Proper socialization helps our pups reach their greatest potential level of confidence – a key characteristic for guide dogs. All pups need to have repeated positive experiences in many varied locations.
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Basic Concepts
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- Comfort Over Control!
- Provide repeated Positive Experiences!
- Introduce new challenges based on the pup’s positive reaction
to them.
- Provide a wide variety of experiences. Keep them short (5-10
mins)
- Puppies begin socialization at the Canine Development Center and in
Home Socialization – Puppy Raisers continue the process.
- Allow the pup to progress at his own speed.
- All pups should get a variety of exposures each day from the
time raisers get them.
- Make the pup part of your daily life, bringing him with you.
- Life is a Lesson! Pups are always learning so be aware and
observant – make sure you are teaching the pup what
you want it to learn!
- End every lesson or outing on a positive note.
- Praise generously!
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Guidelines to ages
(These age levels and descriptions are generalizations. There will
be many exceptions! Call your Area Coordinator or Puppy Evaluator
if you have questions or concerns.)
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7 to 12 weeks old
- Most important time to introduce wide variety of all experiences.
Don’t wait. Just be appropriate level. *See the
Puppy Exposure
Guide for age appropriate exposures.
4 through 8 months
- Challenging time for control. A well structured puppy that
is well socialized will be more confident.
9 through 11 months (or pre- and post-heat weeks for females),
but can be anytime 8-12 months
- Puberty is a time of turmoil, can experience insecurities
more at this time.
12 months and up
- Foundation laid is built upon. Advance intensity and ask more
of dog
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What to do when introducing a new experience
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- Initially allow the pup to approach new things on a loose
leash. A loose leash is the goal with everything!
- Use a happy, up-beat tone of voice (this is jollying)
- Touch the pup and any new object that you even suspect may
cause concern. Stay beside the pup and on the
pup's level.
- Keep it brief. Bring the pup’s crate when visiting family
and friends so that the puppy can have naps and time-outs
as needed. A tired, over-stimulated puppy easily gets
out of control.
- Use basic obedience (sit, down, stay) to teach the pup how
to behave in each situation.
- Provide a distraction so the focus is on having fun by using
safe toys for the pup to chew on. (this is also jollying)
Praise generously. Praise builds confidence!
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If the pup is worried or frightened:
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Signs that a pup is concerned include:
- Concentrated visual focus on something in the distance.
- Hackling, barking, growling, lunging
- Trying to avoid by excessive sniffing, moving away,
scratching
What to do:
- Be "matter of fact" and let the pup approach on its own
- Make a game of the situation (jolly). Jolly and use happy,
up-beat voice to prevent or to distract
from issues of concern.
- Increase distance from the cause of concern.
- Play with pup at a comfortable distance or leave area if necessary.
- Give pup opportunity to check situation out again in its own
way and time.
- If you cannot approach, use "jolly" and "Let’s go!" Keep the
pup’s attention on you and move away from the threatening situation.
End on a positive note.
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Socialization outing expectations
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- The pup should get multiple exposure experiences a day, beginning
the first week you have him. Practice B.O.S.S (basic obedience
skill set) around the house, in your neighborhood, and in public places.
Once the pup is confident in a situation and/or location, repeat
in a new location. Each pup will progress at it's own speed.
- Only allow the pup to do things that you want him to continue
doing when he weighs 80 lbs!
- Your pup has a powerful sense of smell. He does not
need to get his nose into something to get its scent.
- Your pup is always learning. Make sure he’s learning what
you want to teach!
- Be observant and alert to pup’s comfort level.
- Use obedience and proper leash handling techniques to prevent
unwanted behaviors such as jumping, sniffing,
chasing, etc.
- Praise generously for good behavior, even if you didn’t ask
for it!
- Use voice to keep pup’s attention on you.
- Dedicate your training time to your puppy. If you can not
focus on the pup, it is best to take the pup home.
- End outing or lesson on a positive note and before pup is
too tired to stay focused.
- PRAISE!
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People Greeting
(all ages – starting from day one!)
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Ideally, mature dogs will be able to approach, greet or walk past
people of all shapes, sizes and ages in a relaxed manner.
- The pup should ignore people on a loose leash with no jumping
or licking.
- Use obedience ("sit") to help pup maintain self-control if
he is excited.
- Allow people to pet the pup only if he is calm.
- Take a deep breath and relax! If you are tense, so is your
pup!
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Puppy Jackets and Raiser ID cards
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- Your ID card or a casual explanation of the puppy-raising
program will suffice as introduction.
- Puppy coats are a great public awareness tool. If your puppy’s
obedience and social manners are good, you will get
a jacket from your region.
- Puppy coats attract a lot of attention to your pup and
may, therefore, heighten pressure and/or stress.
- Puppy coats advertise Guiding Eyes for the Blind. Be sure
your pup is a good representative of our puppy-raising
program! Keep your puppy jacket clean and in good repair.
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Working with an excited or distracted dog when socializing
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- Prevent sniffing, jumping, etc.
- Think positive! Tell your pup what you do want him
to do (i.e. "Sit!" "Quiet!" or "Let’s go!")
- Use neck massage if necessary.
- Keep visits brief at first and gradually lengthen them according
to your pup’s comfort and behavior levels.
- Do obedience in various places.
- Use voice to keep pup’s attention on you.
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7 to 12 weeks
(Since we are dealing with generalizations, there will be many
exceptions! Call your Area Coordinator or Puppy Evaluator
if you have questions or concerns.
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Where to socialize
- Your home – all the different rooms; all sides of the exterior;
stairs both indoors and out. Repeat at different times
of day.
- Your neighborhood – friend’s driveways, yards and houses.
- Outside of neighborhood shops, small strip malls and small
town settings with exposure to stairs, underfootings,
people, etc…
- Have pup observe all different types of streets and traffic
at appropriate distance
- Avoid pet shops, vet offices and kennels until the pup is
fully vaccinated! This does not mean that a pup can’t
go to new places until vaccines are complete.
- Trips to visit family and friends.
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13 to 16 weeks
(We are dealing with generalizations. Therefore, there will be many
exceptions! Call your Area Coordinator or Puppy Evaluator if
you have questions or concerns.)
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Where to socialize:
- Areas described above, if doing well advance to a wide variety
of life situations keeping in mind that the pup needs
to have repeated positive experiences.
- Be sure to include car riding (floor of front seat), walking
on sidewalks, open and closed back stairs, meeting other animals,
meeting all types of people, hearing many kinds of noises,
etc.
- Go at different times of day and different days of the week
to provide variety.
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| 4 through 8 months |
Where to socialize:
- All of the above and if pup is doing well, progress to situations
below.
- Go into non-food stores like dry cleaners, banks, etc. that
are in your normal routine. *Decide with your area
coordinator at what point your pup is ready.
- Remember variety is important. Try to expose to as many new
locations as possible once dog is comfortable. Dogs get acclimated
to the same situation but may not be comfortable in
a similar setting without exposure. *However, be
sure that the pup is comfortable in one location/situation before moving
onto another.
- Sleep overs at other raiser’s homes (1-2 nights).
- Enter store and stand in an out of the way place where pup
can sit and observe.
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9 through 11 months
(Pups are individuals and develop differently. There will be
many exceptions to these general guidelines! Call your Area
Coordinator or Puppy Evaluator if you have questions
or concerns.)
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Where to socialize:
- Continue going to all the places you have already introduced,
both inside and outside.
- Introduce new places at the same level and gradually increase
the level of intensity (i.e. schools in session, active
playgrounds, larger towns and small cities) according
to your pup’s level of confidence.
- Begin introducing food stores such as restaurants, grocery
stores and convenience stores. *Decide with your
Area Coordinator when your pup is ready for these higher stress situations.
- Continue sleep-overs at other raiser’s homes. (2-3 nights)
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12 months and over
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Where to socialize:
- Continue going to all the places you have already introduced,
both inside and outside.
- Introduce new places at the same level and gradually increase
the level of intensity.
If comfortable, pup should go virtually everywhere with you,
including shopping, restaurants, hotels, schools, parks, religious
services, performances, etc.
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| Things to Remember! |
- To master each level before moving on to the next.
- To practice at one skill level in varied places and at
different times of day before moving on to greater challenges.
- To go back to earlier levels for review and to
rebuild confidence. Puppies do not mature in a straight
progression, there will be hills and valleys along the way.
- Have fun!
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